On our way to Copenhagen, I had two questions going in: what exactly is Hygge (pronounced hyoo-guh) and WHY does CPH keep scoring so high on the happiness index and liveability index?! After spending a week here and chatting with locals, I totally see what makes this city so very special.
I mistakenly thought Hygge was just a word for being cozy: you know, curled up with a book and blanket, sipping tea, next to a fireplace. But the word is actually a larger concept than that; it's a practice of slow living, a way of stopping to enjoy life's small pleasures (either in solitude or with friends and family.) The word originates from an old Norwegian word that roughly translates to, 'protection from the outside world' and I think that's a great way to think of it: Put your stressors from the outside world aside, take part in activities that enrich your soul as you give time to yourself and your loved ones.
The Danish government and companies really encourage this stress-free way of living: They have a robust social welfare system with universal healthcare and free education. Most companies ensure a great work-life balance with shorter working weeks, flexible working hours, and 5 week minimum of annual leave. Parental leave includes a split of 52 weeks between both parents!! 😯
So what to do with all this free time? 😏 Enjoy the abundance of outdoor spaces and the world-class restaurants, of course!
So that's what we tried to do this week, live locally like the Danish. Most of these places in this travel guide aren't sightseeing heavy, it was more about eating good food and exploring neighborhoods. And, we were so excited to have Hygge time in some of these places with our friends, Frank and Xi :)
where to stay
I recommend staying in Nørrebro (or nearby Frederiksberg for a more residential feel.) I really loved hanging out in this area, it's really multicultural and a bit like the Brooklyn of CPH: a melting pot of students, creatives, and immigrants. Very much a local vibe! Tons of independent stores and great eateries and bars here.
where to eat and drink
CPH has quickly risen to be a culinary capital in Europe, thanks to a few chefs and food professionals that met in 2004 to develop the New Nordic Manifesto. This is an agreement to ensure restaurants in Nordic cuisine strive for ingredients that are pure, simple, fresh, and seasonal. I know, buzzyyy words, but this city actually puts it's money where it's mouth is, no pun intended. The manifesto is worth reading, and I appreciate the section for children's meals too! 🥰
I tried a few bakeries, but the two I most enjoyed were Rug Bakery and Andersen & Maillard. I have more restaurant recs, and all have vegetarian options!
Auren's Deli: such a sweet little spot! Rotating menu of daily sandwiches and salads, with jazzy vinyl blasting throughout. Large windows and large tables, I could work out of this café all day.
DØP - The Organic Hotdog Stand: right in the city center, easy to get a quick lunch here. I got the original with all the fixins, and we wanted to go back again the next day. 😋
Café Segalls: You must try a typical Danish breakfast! Here that includes coffee, bread, jam, butter, hard cheese, soft boiled eggs, muesli, yogurt, and fruit. Food quality and service were both excellent.
GRØD Porridge: I had the sweet option for breakfast and the savory option for lunch (different days, don't worry). Best porridge I've had, ever. And I call myself a 'breakfast mush' expert, I eat this so much back home 😂 but yeah, sooo delicious, and they have multiple locations!
Poulette / Pompette: Poulette is a restaurant from The Bear season 2, so I had to try it - I think it's the best fried chicken sandwich I've ever had. Right next to it is Pompette, a cozy little wine bar. Unfortunately Poulette is takeaway only, but you can sit at this bar if you buy some wine too (not a problem for me ha)
Baka d' Busk: such a vibey little spot, love the décor - felt very lower east side! A veggie-forward menu that also changes daily, I really enjoyed this meal.
For cocktail bars, we had a great time at Ruby and 1105 with our friends. Check out Peders Brewery too, the guys working there are SO friendly, and are happy to share about their life growing up in Denmark.
what to see and do
Within Nørrebro, grab pastries at one of the many cafes/bakeries, walk through the Assistens Kirkegård (a verdant cemetery that was so peaceful and lovely) and pop through some of the independent stores to shop for things with non-tourist pricing! If you're into yoga, I enjoyed a class at Iluma yoga studio, this studio was defff the definition of hygge.
Ok, I was very nervous to bike in this city lol. I imagined all the ways in which a n00b like me could get run over or just piss off all the biking experts 😅 So I asked Adi to sign us up for a guided bike tour of the city, and it was SO great. The city is small enough that you really cover a lot of ground, and after, I wanted to keep biking around! Success.
Have lunch at Reffen, an open-air street food market. Some of the best international restaurants got their start here, but the standout part is that it feels like every single cuisine or country has a stall. You can get South Indian dosas, Hawaiian shaved ice, kebabs from Afghanistan, Tex-mex - I mean the range is just incredible 😄 Just overall a great place to chill with friends, I saw DJ sets planned for later too. From Reffen, walk over to the Opera House - this walk was gorgeous, you'll pass by so many harbors where you'll see people relaxing by the water, having picnics. Quite a lively environment!
Some museums I liked:
Botanical Garden and Palmehuset - You wouldn't usually think of a garden as a museum but this one kind of is! First, walking through the garden was just beautiful, the park in the middle of the city really feels like an oasis from the outside chaos. Then, check out Palmehuset which is this glasshouse that holds a temperature-controlled plant conservatory. There are plants from allll over the world, and there are little signs posted so you can read about what makes them unique. I learned so much here!
The Royal Library and National Museum of Photography - the library is just architecturally stunning so it's nice to walk through, but what really blew me away was the Photography Museum on the ground floor. It's more like a museum about photojournalism. You know those TIME "photo of the year" posts where, yes the photo is pretty to look at, but it's the story behind it that really draws you? This museum is filled with that.
some pictures I took at the museum. First one is about how rigorous police training in Poland can be. Second one is about how 70% of women in Mexico have experienced some sort of violence, so many Mexican women often carry objects like these in their handbag to protect themselves. Third pic is about Romania witches lol! In an otherwise patriarchal society, these women perform their rituals on Youtube daily, to thousands of live-streamers - this has made them financially independent and live in a free world, where there mothers were not.
Danish Architecture Center - Learn about why Denmark is leading in architecture and design. Everything they do in this city is so practical and intentional - I initially wasn't so interested in these areas, but they really make these topics fascinating!
Louisiana MOMA - lovely museum of modern art, about 45 min train ride from CPH. The landscape of the location is so tranquil, and much of the artwork was stunning. The cafe was pretty tasty too, for a museum spot!
There are some cities to see, but I feel like Copenhagen is just a great place to ~be~ (unintentional rhyming). The city really is special because of how everything is designed with such consideration, and so the higher quality of life is a byproduct. The average age of people here is 36, so maybe thats why I find this city so youthful and fun. Absolutely can't wait to return again one day!
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